Under the Table Wines

RED: 2023 REVELLO BARBERA D’ALBA PIEDMONT, ITALY

Right after World War II, the Revello family settled in Piedmont and started growing grapes in the mid-1950s. At first, they sold those grapes to other wineries, but they started making their own wine by the late 1960s. Since then, it’s become a true family operation with multiple generations helping oversee the vineyards, winery, and accompanying restaurant. It’s been years since we’ve featured a Barbera in wine club, and we’re particularly excited to showcase a wine from Alba (rather than the more popular Asti). This wine is juicy with balancing acidity, light tannins, and a prominent black cherry note. Enjoy alongside pork ragu pasta, polenta with sausage or mushrooms, or lamb chops.

WHITE: 2023 STEFANO MASSONE GAVI MASERA , PIEDMONT, ITALY

Stefano Massone’s vineyards are located in the warmer southeastern part of Gavi where the Cortese grape ripens easily. Because this varietal can be very productive, rigorous vineyard management and low yields are vital to producing Cortese of high quality, as practiced at Massone but at few other estates. This wine manages to be both weighty and full while still dancing lightly on the palate with notes of fennel, apple, salt, and bitter almond. A great match for roasted trout, chicken tacos, or aged cow’s or sheep’s milk cheeses.

BUBBLY: 2022 DME PLAGEOLES MAUZAC NATURE, GAILLAC, FRANCE

Founder Robert Plageoles took great pride in bringing back the lost indigenous varieties of the area. He researched and replanted over a dozen varieties (7 in the Mauzac family alone) indigenous to Gaillac that had all but vanished. Robert’s son Bernard continued this work, and now Bernard’s sons Florent and Romain have taken up the cause of natural wines in Gaillac. In this wine, they use the ancient method of making sparkling wine, resulting in a fizzy Pet Nat that reminds us of pear cider. Notes of minerals and almond add to the savoriness of this fizz that’s great with French toast, omelettes, or a grilled ham & cheese.

ROSÉ: 2024 FOLK MACHINE ROSÉ, SANTA ROSA, CALIFORNIA

Yes, you read that right, 2024! This wine is brand spanking new. Kenny Litkitprakong is one of our very favorite winemakers, both because of his deft hand in the fields and winery and because his winery supports important causes with real action. They believe in environmental and social justice, and we love supporting their work. This rosé is one of the first to arrive every year, but it’s extra early this year, and we’re rewarding you great people with this round, citrusy rosé of Gamay. Enjoy with spring rolls, chicken & sweet potato stirfry, or turkey burgers.

NATURAL: 2023 LES LUNES ASTRAL BLEND, ORINDA, CALIFORNIA

We hosted winemaker/owner Shaunt Oungoulian for our first winemaker party in the wine garden. He and his wine partner Diego Roig run two wine labels, Populis and Les Lunes, both of which are long-time favorites around here. They lease their own vineyards because they believe in working the vines themselves, and the result is often clean, pure fruit. The Astral Blend is exactly the kind of fun, undefinable wine we had in mind when we started the natural wine club. It’s a blend of carbonically macerated Zinfandel, rosé of Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, so it’s a little bit of red, white, and pink in one tingly, vibrant red. It has notes of roses and cranberry with light but noticeable tannins. Pair with roasted chicken, grilled salmon, or duck with cranberry sauce.

• RED: CH CARBONNEAU PUR JUS, COTES DE BORDEAUX, FRANCE

  Chateau Carbonneau was first built in 1860 and passed through a few hands due in part to the world wars. Current owner Wilfrid Franc de Ferriere married a woman visiting from New Zealand, which tied in nicely with his own mother’s roots to the island country. Now, his children are the third generation of New Zealanders to live at Carbonneau. He and his wife Jacquie brought winemaking back to the estate in the 1990s, which is great for all of us because their wines are so lovely. Pur Jus is a blend of Merlot and Malbec with notes of herbs and both red & black cherries. Its grippy tannins make it a great match for grilled ribeye, aged cheddar, or meaty lasagna.

• WHITE: CH CARBONNEAU MARGOT, COTES DE BORDEAUX, FRANCE

  [See red note for a bit about the winery.] Margot is named after Wilfrid and Jacquie’s eldest daughter, and it’s 100% Sauvignon Blanc. You can really taste the New Zealand heritage behind these French grapes. This wine manages to straddle both styles with a definite nod towards New Zealand with its notes of gooseberry, tart kiwi, and asparagus. Why not get a little French and fancy for no reason and make a chevre souffle to serve with this wine? Otherwise, a lemony white bean soup would be just the thing.

• BUBBLY: 2018 PERE MATA GRAN RESERVA FAMILIA BRUT NATURE, PENEDÈS, SPAIN

  Owner and winemaker Pere Mata farms everything organically and by hand at his 5 hectare (about 12 acre) winery in the heart of Cava country. He ages all of his wine far longer than required for the style and dates with a vintage, so you can really geek out about his bubbles. We’ve been pouring his rosé Cava by the glass and wanted to get you his Gran Reserva bubbles to start your new year in style. It’s a blend of the three Cava grapes–Macabeo, Xarello & Parellada–with notes of nuts, chalk, and bright fruit that leads to a layered, complex wine. We highly recommend opening this wine a bit before you plan to drink it to give it time to open up or drink the bottle slowly over the night (no need to stick it back in the fridge). Enjoy with almond pain perdu, hazelnut-crusted pork, or a selection of firm cheeses.

• ROSÉ: 2023 POPULIS ROSÉ, ORINDA, CALIFORNIA

  We hosted winemaker/owner Shaunt Oungoulian for our first winemaker party in the wine garden. He and his wine partner Diego Roig run two wine labels, Populis and Les Lunes. They graduated out of their basement where they had been making wines for years and now have a brick and mortar winery to visit. They lease their own vineyards because they believe in working the vines themselves, and the result is often clean, pure fruit. Their rosé is a fun blend of both reds (Zinfandel, Nero d'Avola & Cinsault) and whites (Pinot Gris, French Colombard & Orange Muscat). It tastes like a not sweet version of a cherry Jolly Rancher and seltzer. It’s a great wine to go with sushi takeout, light salmon preparations, or Mediterranean chicken skewers.

• NATURAL: 2023 LUYT PIPENO BLANCO, MAULE VALLEY, CHILE

  One of our goals with the natural club is to include a wide variety of styles as well as regions, so our eyes turned towards South America to kick off the new year with something unexpected. Owner/winemaker Louis-Antoine Luyt was told by many landowners in Chile that it didn’t make financial sense to make their own wines and that no one could make money growing lesser known Chilean varietals, all of which felt like a worthy challenge to Louis-Antoine. He studied winemaking in France and then started his winery in 2006 where he breaks with convention and makes old-school wines. This wine is a blend of Muscat, Chasselas, Semillon & Torontel that macerates on the skins for 15 days. It explodes with notes of tropical fruit salad, honeysuckle, and ginger. It’s surprisingly not funky and quite quaffable, so we recommend inviting some friends over for fish tacos, white pizza, or a chips/dips party.

RED: 2017 QUINTA DO ARROBE OCULTO RED, TEJO, PORTUGAL

Founded in 2011, Quinta do Arrobe uses vines first planted by the owners’ great-grandfather in 1882. They’re located in central Portugal, about an hour north of Lisbon. They focus primarily on local varietals with a few international varietals in the mix as well. This cozy red is a blend of Cab, Syrah, and Touriga Nacional with notes of blackberry and eucalyptus. Nicely structured with a long finish, this wine is at home with just about any roasted meat, from lamb to short ribs or with hearty grains and greens.

WHITE: 2019 QUINTA DO ARROBE OCULTO WHITE, TEJO, PORTUGAL

[See red note for a bit about the winery.] The white is a blend of two Portuguese varietals–Arinto and Fernão Pires–and Sauvignon Blanc. It’s round and silky, making it a nice winter white, with notes of white flowers, salt, and apple skin. When you’ve had too much of the holidays, order sushi takeout and crack this baby open, or pour it alongside other light fish or pasta dishes.

BUBBLY: 2023 BOKA BIRTOK SPARKLING KADARKA, HUNGARY

Boka Birtok first started in 1903 and was taken over by the newest generation of the family in 2012. On their “micro-estate” (just 1.5 hectares), they produce low-intervention wines that are clean & pure expressions of Hungarian grapes. I tasted this rosé Pet Nat right when the dark clouds descended upon us in November, and it brought me a moment of joy & peace. I hope it does the same for you this holiday season. The grape is Kadarka (think of it like Hungarian Pinot Noir). Creamy yet light, the wine has notes of apricot and red apple. It’s the perfect accompaniment to latkes and lox, French toast brunch, or even a cookie plate.

ROSÉ: 2023 CH GASSIER ESPRIT COTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ, COTES DE PROVENCE, FRANCE

Georges Gassier is the fifth generation of his family to oversee their gorgeous land in Provence. Nestled between mountain ranges and only 30 km from the Mediterranean, their organic vineyards are quite breathtaking. Since 2015, Ch Gassier’s wines have been woman-made by Léa Rouyet who is rightfully in love with her surrounding landscape. Their rosé captures the spirit of the region with its blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Semillon, Rolle & unnamed others. It’s elegant and round with notes of almond and red currant. Serve before dinner with Mediterranean snacks or with a white pizza.

NATURAL: 2022 CASTELLO DI TASSAROLO ORSOLA ROSSO, PIEDMONT, ITALY

The estate is run by Massimiliana Spinola whose family has been making wine at this estate since the 1300s. They switched to biodynamic farming in 2006 and proudly don’t add any sulfites to their wines to show off the purity of their fruit. The Orsola label is a collaboration between Tassarolo and the natural wine importer Jenny & Francois, and it’s named after Massimiliana’s relative. Orsola lived in New York for a while and befriended many artists, including Andy Warhol. Yes, that’s a real Warhol on the label (it still hangs in Orsola’s house not far from the winery). This red is a velvety blend of Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon that tastes like red & black cherries. Serve with lasagna, Italian sausage sandwiches, or a wide variety of cheeses.

RED: MOTHER BLOCK RED, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA

Mother Block is the second label of Chalmers, a beloved winery in Australia that specializes in Italian varietals. It’s in their home vineyard, known as the Mother Block, that they grow a wide array of Italian grapes that growers around Australia have begun using. The Chalmers family started off as growers and then became winemakers twenty years ago, and now we get to enjoy the delights of this sustainable vineyard. The red is a blend of Sagrantino, Nero d’Avola, Aglianico, Sangiovese, Uva di Troia, Teroldego & Piedirosso. We were immediately taken with its approachability and notes of black fruit and spice. Serve with your favorite roasted meat, sharp cheddar, or a peppery stir-fry.

WHITE: MOTHER BLOCK WHITE, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA

[See red note for a bit about the winery.] The white is a blend of Vermentino, Fiano, Grechetto, Greco, Glera, Pinot Bianco & Pinot Grigio. It’s a delicate wine with notes of apple blossom, orange zest, and lemon. The balance of fruit to acidity makes it a great wine for just sipping without food, but if you’re pairing it, go for lemony white beans, clams with linguine, or fennel & orange salad.

BUBBLY: 2022 JC CALVET CREMANT DE BORDEAUX, BORDEAUX, FRANCE

Founded in 1818, Calvet started with inherited vineyards in the Rhone Valley before expanding to the more prestigious regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Throughout the 19th and most of the 20th century, Calvet was one of, if not the, biggest names in French wines. Lucky for us because their wines are still incredibly well-made and still reasonably priced. This Cremant is an unusual blend of Merlot and Semillon made just like Champagne. It’s fruity & creamy with notes of apple blossom. If there’s something worth celebrating at the beginning of this month, crack this beauty open! Otherwise, save for Thanksgiving or the next time you’re roasting a chicken.

ROSÉ: 2023 BAGLIESI SCIAPÓ, SICILY, ITALY 

Bagliesi started in the early 1960s and is now overseen by the 3rd generation of the Bagliesi family. Located in the southern hills of Sicily, the winery is deeply dedicated to organic farming, and the purity of fruit comes through in all of their wines. This rosé is 100% Nero d’Avola. It’s delicate with notes of citrus and red berries. It’ll be a perfect accompaniment to your Thanksgiving dinner or enjoy with cheese & charcuterie when you don’t feel like cooking (or thinking too hard).

NATURAL: 2023 LES TETES TETE ORANGE, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE

Les Tètes is a small wine project run collaboratively by four friends– Nicolas, Philippe, Baptiste, and Vivien–in the Loire Valley. In their words, “Les Tétes is about friendship, and wines you drink with friends.” We could think of no better sentiment in the month of Thanksgiving and a challenging political world that calls out for extra time with people we love than this skin contact wine. It’s a blend of Chenin Blanc, Muscadelle, Mauzac Rose & Colombard that are macerated separately for 8-14 days before being blended. It’s a textured, minerally beauty that reminds us of a whole orange–zest, juice, and seeds. Pair with soft cheeses, orange chicken, or baked salmon.

RED: 2023 GULP HABLO GARNACHA, CASTILLA LA MANCHA, SPAIN

The Parra family has been farming in this region for generations and first started making wine in the 1930s. They have a vision for a biodynamic, self-sustaining ecosystem that produces not only wine but also organic garlic and Manchego cheese. Gulp Hablo is their line of affordable natural wine in liters, and we think you’re going to love it even if you don’t give a hoot about natural wine. The red has notes of juicy cherry with light spice and delicate tannins. Great for pizza night with friends (like while the kids trick or treat) or grilling brats during a sportsball game.

WHITE: 2023 GULP HABLO WHITE, CASTILLA LA MANCHA, SPAIN

[See red note for a bit about the winery.] The white is 100% Verdejo that’s fresh & zesty with notes of green apple and lemon. If you haven’t gotten on the Verdejo-instead-of-Sauv-Blanc train, toot toot! Get on board. This liter of crisp goodness is for one of those last warm days in October with grilled shrimp, lemony pasta, or your Tuesday night grain bowl.

BUBBLY: NV FRANCOIS DE NICOLAY BULLES DOG, BURGUNDY, FRANCE

Dme Chandon de Briailles has been a family-run estate since 1834, but they wanted to expand beyond their own vineyards a bit, so they started the Francois de Nicolay project. Like their own estate, the grapes are biodynamic, and the wines are clean and beautifully natural. They got playful naming this Pet Nat of Aligoté (the lesser known white grape in Burgundy). One sip had us thinking of pear & cardamom pastries. Enjoy this delicate wine before a meal or with a grilled cheese & pear sandwich.

ROSÉ: 2023 BROC CELLARS FOX HILL ROSATO, MENDOCINO, CALIFORNIA

Chris Brockway came to California from Nebraska with a longing to make great wine and started Broc Cellars in 2006. His operation has grown over the years, and he and his wife, Bridget, now have an urban winery in Berkeley. Their commitment to natural wines that show the purity of California fruit has never wavered. This blend of Sangiovese & Montepulciano almost looks like a red wine, but we assure you it’s simply a fuller bodied rosé with notes of minerals, raspberry, and, most delightfully, cranapple. Drink now with Thai noodles, red-sauce pizza, or save for that big eating holiday next month.

NATURAL: 2023 NANCLARES Y PRIETO DANDELION ALBARIÑO, RIAS BAIXAS, SPAIN

Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto have been making gorgeous wines that show the influence of the Atlantic ocean since 2015. If you have a minute, the full story of their backgrounds and how they started working together is worth the read. Their flagship wine is Dandelion Albariño, and we look forward to it every year. The day that I was sitting down to pick the wine for this club was the day that I found out the newest vintage of Dandelion had just arrived. You had to have it! It’s a hefty, layered wine with notes of Key lime and sea air. We recommend pairing it with seared scallops, baked trout, or fresh pasta with olive oil & fresh herbs.

RED: 2023 CAVALCHINA BARDOLINO, VENETO, ITALY

Right after WWII in 1948, Luciano Piona started a family winery in Lake Garda. His grandsons, Franco and Luciano, now run that estate and are incredibly proud of this little pocket in northern Italy. Bardolino is the lesser known subregion that’s often overshadowed by Valpolicella, but reds in the area are made from the same grapes. This wine is a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara, and it has Bardolino’s signature light body. Notes of strawberry, red plum, and rose petal make it a lovely late summer wine to pair with overripe tomatoes, barbecue, or one last BLT.

WHITE: 2020 COLPAOLO VERDICCHIO DE MATELICA, LE MARCHE, ITALY

Tenuta Colpaolo started out as a country house for the owner’s family in the 1960s, and they sold the grapes grown on the property to the local co-op. By 2007, the estate had been passed down to the grandson, Francesco, who decided to start bottling their own wine. The winery is in the world’s most renowned subregion for Verdicchio, and you’ll soon see why. There’s a slight mushroomy, earthiness to it, but then the bright acidity kicks in with notes of salt and yellow fruit. Pair with linguine & clams, pesto chicken salad, or Marcona almonds.

ROSÉ: 2023 BOLFAN ROSÉ, ZAGORJE-MEDIMURJE, CROATIA

Bolfan is the largest winery in this part of Croatia, where wine dates back thousands of years to the Roman empire. The winery prides itself on making natural wines with no chemicals in the vineyard or winery. We poured this rosé earlier in the summer at a tasting, and it was a big hit, but we saved most of it for you. This rosé of Pinot Noir has a flintiness about it with red berry notes and gentle spice that kicks in on the finish. All around a fun wine to pair with late summer veggies like eggplant, squash, and tomatoes.

BUBBLY: 2023 TRE MONTI DOPPIO BIANCO PIGNOLETTO FRIZZANTE, EMILIA-ROMAGNA, ITALY

Tre Monti was started in the early 1960s by Sergio Navacchia and his wife Thea, who for years was the real driving force behind the winery until her death in 1989. Over the intervening years, the winery has focused on its responsibility to the earth and became organic certified in 2014. This bubbly has long been one of our personal favorites, though we’ve never carried it until now. The grape in Pignoletto is Grechetto Gentile, which they’ve made into a sparkling wine using the same process as Prosecco. It’s delicately sparkling with notes of lemon pith and Bosc pear. Pop open with shrimp cocktail, kale chicken caesar, or ravioli.

NATURAL: 2020 ERIC TEXIER ST JULIEN ST ALBAN, RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE

Yes, I once heard Eric Texier bemoan the natural wine boom all while we were in his gorgeous Rhone Valley vineyards where he became the godfather of natural wine decades ago. Eric doesn’t make natural wine because it’s trendy or cool. He does it because he deeply loves the land where he’s from, and he wants to make clean, pure wines that showcase the fruit he so carefully grows (that his adult children and their friends foot stomp). St Julien St Alban is a small subregion in the Rhone, and this wine is 100% Syrah. It’s a concentrated, serious wine with notes of blueberry and earth. Save this one for a cooler September night and enjoy with roasted lamb, firm cheeses, or lentil & mushroom stew.

RED: 2020 ROTERFADEN & ROSSWAG TERRACES RED, WÜRTTEMBERG, GERMANY

In the tiny village of Rosswag, 99% of the vines are grown by the local cooperative on this amazing amphitheater of terraced vines. The other 1% (literally) is grown by Hannes Hoffmann & Olympia Samara of Weingut Roterfaden, pioneers in biodynamics and natural winemaking. Rockstar importer Vom Boden brought the two groups together to create an affordable wine that will lead to better all around practices in this stunning area. This wine is exactly the kind of chillable red you need late in summer. It’s a blend of Zweigelt & Trollinger that’s soft with nice acidity and notes of cranberry and bell peppers. Pair with smoked meats, steak fajitas, or pizza with corn and other summer veggies.

WHITE: 2022 HILD ELBLING TROCKEN, UPPER MOSEL, GERMANY

Quick: name a German white grape that isn’t Riesling! I’m going to guess that you didn’t say Elbling. In the Upper Mosel, this ancient varietal was the key to conviviality. Matthias Hild has his heart set on maintaining his old, terraced plots of Elbling, and we’re here to help. His sparkling wine has been on our glass list from time to time and is this month’s Under the Bubbly Table pick. Here you have the grape in still form, special ordered from the importer specifically for this club! This super bright white is mineral driven with notes of tart citrus that’s somewhat reminiscent of Verdejo or Muscadet. Enjoy with tomato salad, grilled trout, or ham & cheese quiche.

ROSÉ: 2023 FRENCH POOL TOTE, VIN DE FRANCE, FRANCE

It’s getting to be that time in the summer where everyone’s trying to pack in all the warm weather fun. Whether you’re camping, roadtripping, or spending the day on the lake, a big bag of rosé is sure to make everyone happy. This blend Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah is soft with notes of lemon & strawberry, a touch zippier than previous vintages. It’s meant to be enjoyed by people you love with or without food. We vote for BLTs, corn on the cob, and watermelon if you need inspiration.

BUBBLY: NV HILD ELBLING SEKT, UPPER MOSEL, GERMANY

[See the white note for a bit about the winery.] Matthias’ sparkling Elbling is the first expression of the grape we ever tried, and we’ve been fans ever since. The wine is fruity but dry with an almost cider-like quality about it. It’s a perfect wine to pop open when you’re having cheese & crackers or an all-snack dinner when it’s too hot to turn the oven on.

NATURAL: 2023 BROC CELLARS LOVE SPARKLING, PASO ROBLES, CALIFORNIA

Chris Brockway came to California from Nebraska with a longing to make great wine and started Broc Cellars in 2006. His operation has grown over the years, and he and his wife, Bridget, now have an urban winery in Berkeley. Their commitment to natural wines that show the purity of California fruit has never wavered, and we're excited to get their sparkling wine into your hands. The wine comes from Chenin Blanc that spends a few hours on the skins before pressing, which gives the wine the slightest bit of texture. Just 5% of Orange Muscat adds aromatics to this gingery, apple-y wine. Drink alongside caprese salad, grilled summer squash, or light pastas.