Under the Table Wines

RED: 2017 QUINTA DO ARROBE OCULTO RED, TEJO, PORTUGAL

Founded in 2011, Quinta do Arrobe uses vines first planted by the owners’ great-grandfather in 1882. They’re located in central Portugal, about an hour north of Lisbon. They focus primarily on local varietals with a few international varietals in the mix as well. This cozy red is a blend of Cab, Syrah, and Touriga Nacional with notes of blackberry and eucalyptus. Nicely structured with a long finish, this wine is at home with just about any roasted meat, from lamb to short ribs or with hearty grains and greens.

WHITE: 2019 QUINTA DO ARROBE OCULTO WHITE, TEJO, PORTUGAL

[See red note for a bit about the winery.] The white is a blend of two Portuguese varietals–Arinto and Fernão Pires–and Sauvignon Blanc. It’s round and silky, making it a nice winter white, with notes of white flowers, salt, and apple skin. When you’ve had too much of the holidays, order sushi takeout and crack this baby open, or pour it alongside other light fish or pasta dishes.

BUBBLY: 2023 BOKA BIRTOK SPARKLING KADARKA, HUNGARY

Boka Birtok first started in 1903 and was taken over by the newest generation of the family in 2012. On their “micro-estate” (just 1.5 hectares), they produce low-intervention wines that are clean & pure expressions of Hungarian grapes. I tasted this rosé Pet Nat right when the dark clouds descended upon us in November, and it brought me a moment of joy & peace. I hope it does the same for you this holiday season. The grape is Kadarka (think of it like Hungarian Pinot Noir). Creamy yet light, the wine has notes of apricot and red apple. It’s the perfect accompaniment to latkes and lox, French toast brunch, or even a cookie plate.

ROSÉ: 2023 CH GASSIER ESPRIT COTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ, COTES DE PROVENCE, FRANCE

Georges Gassier is the fifth generation of his family to oversee their gorgeous land in Provence. Nestled between mountain ranges and only 30 km from the Mediterranean, their organic vineyards are quite breathtaking. Since 2015, Ch Gassier’s wines have been woman-made by Léa Rouyet who is rightfully in love with her surrounding landscape. Their rosé captures the spirit of the region with its blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Semillon, Rolle & unnamed others. It’s elegant and round with notes of almond and red currant. Serve before dinner with Mediterranean snacks or with a white pizza.

NATURAL: 2022 CASTELLO DI TASSAROLO ORSOLA ROSSO, PIEDMONT, ITALY

The estate is run by Massimiliana Spinola whose family has been making wine at this estate since the 1300s. They switched to biodynamic farming in 2006 and proudly don’t add any sulfites to their wines to show off the purity of their fruit. The Orsola label is a collaboration between Tassarolo and the natural wine importer Jenny & Francois, and it’s named after Massimiliana’s relative. Orsola lived in New York for a while and befriended many artists, including Andy Warhol. Yes, that’s a real Warhol on the label (it still hangs in Orsola’s house not far from the winery). This red is a velvety blend of Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon that tastes like red & black cherries. Serve with lasagna, Italian sausage sandwiches, or a wide variety of cheeses.

RED: MOTHER BLOCK RED, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA

Mother Block is the second label of Chalmers, a beloved winery in Australia that specializes in Italian varietals. It’s in their home vineyard, known as the Mother Block, that they grow a wide array of Italian grapes that growers around Australia have begun using. The Chalmers family started off as growers and then became winemakers twenty years ago, and now we get to enjoy the delights of this sustainable vineyard. The red is a blend of Sagrantino, Nero d’Avola, Aglianico, Sangiovese, Uva di Troia, Teroldego & Piedirosso. We were immediately taken with its approachability and notes of black fruit and spice. Serve with your favorite roasted meat, sharp cheddar, or a peppery stir-fry.

WHITE: MOTHER BLOCK WHITE, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA

[See red note for a bit about the winery.] The white is a blend of Vermentino, Fiano, Grechetto, Greco, Glera, Pinot Bianco & Pinot Grigio. It’s a delicate wine with notes of apple blossom, orange zest, and lemon. The balance of fruit to acidity makes it a great wine for just sipping without food, but if you’re pairing it, go for lemony white beans, clams with linguine, or fennel & orange salad.

BUBBLY: 2022 JC CALVET CREMANT DE BORDEAUX, BORDEAUX, FRANCE

Founded in 1818, Calvet started with inherited vineyards in the Rhone Valley before expanding to the more prestigious regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Throughout the 19th and most of the 20th century, Calvet was one of, if not the, biggest names in French wines. Lucky for us because their wines are still incredibly well-made and still reasonably priced. This Cremant is an unusual blend of Merlot and Semillon made just like Champagne. It’s fruity & creamy with notes of apple blossom. If there’s something worth celebrating at the beginning of this month, crack this beauty open! Otherwise, save for Thanksgiving or the next time you’re roasting a chicken.

ROSÉ: 2023 BAGLIESI SCIAPÓ, SICILY, ITALY 

Bagliesi started in the early 1960s and is now overseen by the 3rd generation of the Bagliesi family. Located in the southern hills of Sicily, the winery is deeply dedicated to organic farming, and the purity of fruit comes through in all of their wines. This rosé is 100% Nero d’Avola. It’s delicate with notes of citrus and red berries. It’ll be a perfect accompaniment to your Thanksgiving dinner or enjoy with cheese & charcuterie when you don’t feel like cooking (or thinking too hard).

NATURAL: 2023 LES TETES TETE ORANGE, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE

Les Tètes is a small wine project run collaboratively by four friends– Nicolas, Philippe, Baptiste, and Vivien–in the Loire Valley. In their words, “Les Tétes is about friendship, and wines you drink with friends.” We could think of no better sentiment in the month of Thanksgiving and a challenging political world that calls out for extra time with people we love than this skin contact wine. It’s a blend of Chenin Blanc, Muscadelle, Mauzac Rose & Colombard that are macerated separately for 8-14 days before being blended. It’s a textured, minerally beauty that reminds us of a whole orange–zest, juice, and seeds. Pair with soft cheeses, orange chicken, or baked salmon.

RED: 2023 GULP HABLO GARNACHA, CASTILLA LA MANCHA, SPAIN

The Parra family has been farming in this region for generations and first started making wine in the 1930s. They have a vision for a biodynamic, self-sustaining ecosystem that produces not only wine but also organic garlic and Manchego cheese. Gulp Hablo is their line of affordable natural wine in liters, and we think you’re going to love it even if you don’t give a hoot about natural wine. The red has notes of juicy cherry with light spice and delicate tannins. Great for pizza night with friends (like while the kids trick or treat) or grilling brats during a sportsball game.

WHITE: 2023 GULP HABLO WHITE, CASTILLA LA MANCHA, SPAIN

[See red note for a bit about the winery.] The white is 100% Verdejo that’s fresh & zesty with notes of green apple and lemon. If you haven’t gotten on the Verdejo-instead-of-Sauv-Blanc train, toot toot! Get on board. This liter of crisp goodness is for one of those last warm days in October with grilled shrimp, lemony pasta, or your Tuesday night grain bowl.

BUBBLY: NV FRANCOIS DE NICOLAY BULLES DOG, BURGUNDY, FRANCE

Dme Chandon de Briailles has been a family-run estate since 1834, but they wanted to expand beyond their own vineyards a bit, so they started the Francois de Nicolay project. Like their own estate, the grapes are biodynamic, and the wines are clean and beautifully natural. They got playful naming this Pet Nat of Aligoté (the lesser known white grape in Burgundy). One sip had us thinking of pear & cardamom pastries. Enjoy this delicate wine before a meal or with a grilled cheese & pear sandwich.

ROSÉ: 2023 BROC CELLARS FOX HILL ROSATO, MENDOCINO, CALIFORNIA

Chris Brockway came to California from Nebraska with a longing to make great wine and started Broc Cellars in 2006. His operation has grown over the years, and he and his wife, Bridget, now have an urban winery in Berkeley. Their commitment to natural wines that show the purity of California fruit has never wavered. This blend of Sangiovese & Montepulciano almost looks like a red wine, but we assure you it’s simply a fuller bodied rosé with notes of minerals, raspberry, and, most delightfully, cranapple. Drink now with Thai noodles, red-sauce pizza, or save for that big eating holiday next month.

NATURAL: 2023 NANCLARES Y PRIETO DANDELION ALBARIÑO, RIAS BAIXAS, SPAIN

Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto have been making gorgeous wines that show the influence of the Atlantic ocean since 2015. If you have a minute, the full story of their backgrounds and how they started working together is worth the read. Their flagship wine is Dandelion Albariño, and we look forward to it every year. The day that I was sitting down to pick the wine for this club was the day that I found out the newest vintage of Dandelion had just arrived. You had to have it! It’s a hefty, layered wine with notes of Key lime and sea air. We recommend pairing it with seared scallops, baked trout, or fresh pasta with olive oil & fresh herbs.

RED: 2023 CAVALCHINA BARDOLINO, VENETO, ITALY

Right after WWII in 1948, Luciano Piona started a family winery in Lake Garda. His grandsons, Franco and Luciano, now run that estate and are incredibly proud of this little pocket in northern Italy. Bardolino is the lesser known subregion that’s often overshadowed by Valpolicella, but reds in the area are made from the same grapes. This wine is a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara, and it has Bardolino’s signature light body. Notes of strawberry, red plum, and rose petal make it a lovely late summer wine to pair with overripe tomatoes, barbecue, or one last BLT.

WHITE: 2020 COLPAOLO VERDICCHIO DE MATELICA, LE MARCHE, ITALY

Tenuta Colpaolo started out as a country house for the owner’s family in the 1960s, and they sold the grapes grown on the property to the local co-op. By 2007, the estate had been passed down to the grandson, Francesco, who decided to start bottling their own wine. The winery is in the world’s most renowned subregion for Verdicchio, and you’ll soon see why. There’s a slight mushroomy, earthiness to it, but then the bright acidity kicks in with notes of salt and yellow fruit. Pair with linguine & clams, pesto chicken salad, or Marcona almonds.

ROSÉ: 2023 BOLFAN ROSÉ, ZAGORJE-MEDIMURJE, CROATIA

Bolfan is the largest winery in this part of Croatia, where wine dates back thousands of years to the Roman empire. The winery prides itself on making natural wines with no chemicals in the vineyard or winery. We poured this rosé earlier in the summer at a tasting, and it was a big hit, but we saved most of it for you. This rosé of Pinot Noir has a flintiness about it with red berry notes and gentle spice that kicks in on the finish. All around a fun wine to pair with late summer veggies like eggplant, squash, and tomatoes.

BUBBLY: 2023 TRE MONTI DOPPIO BIANCO PIGNOLETTO FRIZZANTE, EMILIA-ROMAGNA, ITALY

Tre Monti was started in the early 1960s by Sergio Navacchia and his wife Thea, who for years was the real driving force behind the winery until her death in 1989. Over the intervening years, the winery has focused on its responsibility to the earth and became organic certified in 2014. This bubbly has long been one of our personal favorites, though we’ve never carried it until now. The grape in Pignoletto is Grechetto Gentile, which they’ve made into a sparkling wine using the same process as Prosecco. It’s delicately sparkling with notes of lemon pith and Bosc pear. Pop open with shrimp cocktail, kale chicken caesar, or ravioli.

NATURAL: 2020 ERIC TEXIER ST JULIEN ST ALBAN, RHONE VALLEY, FRANCE

Yes, I once heard Eric Texier bemoan the natural wine boom all while we were in his gorgeous Rhone Valley vineyards where he became the godfather of natural wine decades ago. Eric doesn’t make natural wine because it’s trendy or cool. He does it because he deeply loves the land where he’s from, and he wants to make clean, pure wines that showcase the fruit he so carefully grows (that his adult children and their friends foot stomp). St Julien St Alban is a small subregion in the Rhone, and this wine is 100% Syrah. It’s a concentrated, serious wine with notes of blueberry and earth. Save this one for a cooler September night and enjoy with roasted lamb, firm cheeses, or lentil & mushroom stew.

RED: 2020 ROTERFADEN & ROSSWAG TERRACES RED, WÜRTTEMBERG, GERMANY

In the tiny village of Rosswag, 99% of the vines are grown by the local cooperative on this amazing amphitheater of terraced vines. The other 1% (literally) is grown by Hannes Hoffmann & Olympia Samara of Weingut Roterfaden, pioneers in biodynamics and natural winemaking. Rockstar importer Vom Boden brought the two groups together to create an affordable wine that will lead to better all around practices in this stunning area. This wine is exactly the kind of chillable red you need late in summer. It’s a blend of Zweigelt & Trollinger that’s soft with nice acidity and notes of cranberry and bell peppers. Pair with smoked meats, steak fajitas, or pizza with corn and other summer veggies.

WHITE: 2022 HILD ELBLING TROCKEN, UPPER MOSEL, GERMANY

Quick: name a German white grape that isn’t Riesling! I’m going to guess that you didn’t say Elbling. In the Upper Mosel, this ancient varietal was the key to conviviality. Matthias Hild has his heart set on maintaining his old, terraced plots of Elbling, and we’re here to help. His sparkling wine has been on our glass list from time to time and is this month’s Under the Bubbly Table pick. Here you have the grape in still form, special ordered from the importer specifically for this club! This super bright white is mineral driven with notes of tart citrus that’s somewhat reminiscent of Verdejo or Muscadet. Enjoy with tomato salad, grilled trout, or ham & cheese quiche.

ROSÉ: 2023 FRENCH POOL TOTE, VIN DE FRANCE, FRANCE

It’s getting to be that time in the summer where everyone’s trying to pack in all the warm weather fun. Whether you’re camping, roadtripping, or spending the day on the lake, a big bag of rosé is sure to make everyone happy. This blend Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah is soft with notes of lemon & strawberry, a touch zippier than previous vintages. It’s meant to be enjoyed by people you love with or without food. We vote for BLTs, corn on the cob, and watermelon if you need inspiration.

BUBBLY: NV HILD ELBLING SEKT, UPPER MOSEL, GERMANY

[See the white note for a bit about the winery.] Matthias’ sparkling Elbling is the first expression of the grape we ever tried, and we’ve been fans ever since. The wine is fruity but dry with an almost cider-like quality about it. It’s a perfect wine to pop open when you’re having cheese & crackers or an all-snack dinner when it’s too hot to turn the oven on.

NATURAL: 2023 BROC CELLARS LOVE SPARKLING, PASO ROBLES, CALIFORNIA

Chris Brockway came to California from Nebraska with a longing to make great wine and started Broc Cellars in 2006. His operation has grown over the years, and he and his wife, Bridget, now have an urban winery in Berkeley. Their commitment to natural wines that show the purity of California fruit has never wavered, and we're excited to get their sparkling wine into your hands. The wine comes from Chenin Blanc that spends a few hours on the skins before pressing, which gives the wine the slightest bit of texture. Just 5% of Orange Muscat adds aromatics to this gingery, apple-y wine. Drink alongside caprese salad, grilled summer squash, or light pastas.

RED: 2022 FLORES MERLOT, PAYS D’OC, FRANCE 

Flores is a co-op of approximately 70 growers in the south of France who want to grow grapes and make wine in a sustainable way. This area is known for its bulk wine production, so their commitment to biodiversity and improvements in organic and biodynamic farming stand out. We’ve been big fans of their Picpoul for a while, which is why we were so happy to taste their organic Merlot. It has notes of baked blackberries and spice with a touch of earth. What a wine to pair with burgers & mushrooms, grilled lamb chops, or cheese & charcuterie at Concerts on the Square.

WHITE: 2022 DME BRETONNIERE MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE

Established in the 1900s, the Cormerais family's winemaking passion and knowledge has been passed down for generations. Today, Bertrand Cormerais runs the estate where he focuses on healthy grapes in the vineyard to produce excellent wines in the cellar. Muscadet is one of the wine regions we most love turning people onto, so excuse us while we gush about this coastal region on the western edge of the Loire Valley. The grape here is Melon de Bourgogne, and this wine is a lovely example of the minerals & crisp green fruit you can expect from the grape. Enjoy with any light seafood dish, like shrimp cocktail or baked trout, or a grilled halloumi and apple salad.

ROSÉ: 2023 CH TRIANS ROSÉ, PROVENCE, FRANCE

Chateau Trians dates back to the 18th century, but the current owners took over in the 1980s. Since then, they’ve been hard at work restoring the old way of making wine and converting to organic practices. We ordered this rosé especially for our wine club. It’s a blend of Grenache, Cinsault & Syrah that has notes of tropical fruit, peach, and lilac. Like most Provençale rosés, it’s soft and gentle enough to enjoy on its own or alongside chilled cucumber soup, cherry clafouti, or poached salmon.

BUBBLY: NV GASPARD BULLES, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE

Gaspard is one of the house labels of famed natural wine importer Jenny & Francois. They focus on organic, natural wines in the Loire Valley, and we carry many of their other wines. It’s been a while since we’ve had their sparkling Pinot d’Aunis, so we hope you enjoy (you may have already enjoyed it this summer at the Rosé Soirée). Bulles translates to bubbles, which is an apt name for this sparkling rosé that has such lovely bubbles. Notes of red berries and orange complement one another up against a backbone of minerality. Drink with pesto chicken pasta, soft cheeses, or pizza.

NATURAL: 2022 FORLORN HOPE QUEEN OF THE SIERRA ROSÉ, CALAVERAS COUNTY, CALIFORNIA

Matthew Rorick started Forlorn Hope in 2005, where he tends his family’s vineyard and makes clean natural wines alongside his wife, Mara. Prior to that, he repaired submarine telescopes for the United States Navy, rode skateboards for a living, and built electric guitars. We can personally attest that Matthew is an incredibly cool & kind person who answered all of my wine geeky questions on a recent visit. This rosé might be familiar to you because we’ve carried it off and on for years. We haven’t given our Natural club a straight rosé yet and wanted to remedy that with this fruity, bold blend of Zinfandel, Grenache & Tempranillo. Pair with whatever’s for dinner, from Korean barbecue to scrambled eggs with goat cheese to grilled chicken & zucchini.

RED: 2021 DENTHIS STAMNAKI AGIORITIKO, PELOPONNESE, GREECE

Denthis is the oldest appellation in the world, which is why wine importer Eklektikon chose it as the name of their project of affordable yet honest line of wines made by small family wineries in Greece. Stamnaki translates to little wine jug, and this line of wines is an ode to indigenous varietals. Agioritiko (AYE-yor-YEE-tee-ko) is one of the key red grapes in Greece and varies widely by region. This medium-bodied red has notes of spice and black cherry with pleasing tannins. We recommend pairing it with steak au poivre, braised lamb with olives & potatoes, or grilled portobellos.

WHITE: 2021 DENTHIS STAMNAKI ASSYRTIKO, PELOPONNESE, GREECE

[See red note for a bit about the winery.] Assyrtiko is the show-stopping white grape of Greece (and happens to be the grape of our best-selling white last year). We love this wine’s balance of minerals and melony fruit. It’s clean with a lovely texture that’s calling out for light seafood dishes, Mediterranean mezze, or spring veggie pizza.

BUBBLY: DME DE VIEIL ORME CREMANT DE LOIRE, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE

Dme du Vieil Orme is a family-owned estate located in the heart of the Loire Valley. The history of the estate dates back to 1849 and today, Laurent Benoist runs a small vineyard with a strong focus on sustainability. For their Cremant, they blend Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc and let it age for 18-24 months. This beautiful sparkler has notes of baked apple and candied fennel with pleasing acidity. Great for enjoying with shellfish, chicken and avocado salad, or brioche French toast.

ROSÉ: 2024 ALKOOMI ROSÉ, FRANKLAND RIVER, AUSTRALIA

Owner Sandy Hallett’s family first settled in Frankland River in the 1940s as grain and livestock farmers. In the 1970s, Sandy’s parents first planted a small vineyard, which has since grown into a three-generational sustainable winery. This is the first time this rosé has been available in Wisconsin! It’s a blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Grenache & Malbec with notes of peach, pink grapefruit, and ice cream cone. Pair with charcuterie & cheese, sushi takeout, or fresh fruit.

NATURAL: 2023 SCYTHIAN WINE CUCAMONGA REVOLUTION WHITE, CUCAMONGA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

Born in Calcutta, owner Rajat Parr credits his uncle in London for first introducing him to great wines. Rajat led one of the country’s most prestigious wine programs as a world-class sommelier before becoming a winemaker in California. He has a number of wine projects, including the natural beauties of Scythian Wine that highlight the wine heritage around Los Angeles. This white is 100% Palomino (most often used in dry sherry) and immediately reminded us of childhood summers with aromas and flavors of salt, tangerine, and Ecto Cooler. Pour it the next time you’re having mild cheeses, small tapas, or tacos.